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Old School here with a public service announcement: If you ever wondered if Liquid Green Stuff would work in a press mold, it doesn't. The horrible failure you see above is all me!
I made a press mold for my scarabs using regular green stuff, then wondered said "I bet that Liquid Green Stuff would work awesome for these scarabs" (if you just read that aloud in a stupid voice, you nailed it, it was THAT dumb). So, I poured the liquid green stuff in the molds and got really exited to have finally found a purpose for the stuff ... then this morning, I woke up like a kid on Christmas and ran to the mold and much like the Christmas mornings of my childhood, instead of finding a talking Red Rider BB Gun, all I got was a set of Bunny Pajamas ... metaphorically speaking.
The stuff was still mostly goopy, crumbled where it wasn't and was unusable for what I wanted. The good news is that I cleaned the mold and will now be banging out the scarabs in green stuff and miliput, my trusted allies in the epoxy putty world!
As a last note, I just want to say the Liquid Green Stuff is something I cannot find a serious use for, it doesn't fill gaps well, it usually shrinks, it takes forever to dry and anything I can do with it, I can do better with regular Green Stuff and then some. That's just my extra two cents on that topic. Anyway, now that you know, you can avoid the mistake and be that much better for it! Comments, as always, are welcome!
Yikes!Well I guess this confirms what we already knew. Kinda cool though to see it tried out just to make sure.
ReplyDeleteThanks for sharing this.
Ron, FTW
I've been using it to fill the gaps in my slotta bases with excellent results. Other than that though, the occasional crack here and there, but the shrinkage is a bugger.
ReplyDelete-Dylan
It's stellar for smoothing surfaces, like when you've removed detail or sculpted something a bit rough, or like on a metal or fine cast mini with a miscast/rough surface
ReplyDeleteBasically you can use it anywhere you would use watered down milliput
I'm going to try it on a set of autocannons that were 3D printed...they look grainy when primed, so it may do the trick.
ReplyDeleteYou did a noble thing. We need more experimenters! :)
ReplyDeleteOne 'real use' I've found for it is making spikes, or fur ruffs. You dab a glob of it on your brush, touch it to some old news paper and slowly pull it a bit. Let it set for about 10 minutes, then dab another glob on and pull the brush away slowly. After a couple of treatments like that you get a decent 'natural' looking spike, or addition to a fur ruff fringe. It's too time consuming though, so I keep it to line covering where pieces meet.
ReplyDeleteI tend to use the stuff when making bases to cover my chopping mistakes on the sides of particularly tall details, then letting it cure for 2 days before filing.
ReplyDeleteI will say that for gap filling, adding a touch of water does help it's viscosity and usefulness...not a ton, but it does help.
Thanks for chiming in on this one folks, the damned stuff is just inferior in every way to me compared to regular green stuff and I am not a new guy to GS work, so I am suprised that GW put this out and kind of went without saying that it would help out less experience hobbyists, because it is honestly harder to use correctly to achieve the results you need.
ReplyDelete